Exploring Rwanda: A Journey of Reflection and Revelation

posted August 23, 2024 by Elianne Kremer, JDC Entwine Global Programs Manager

In February 2024, my journey to Rwanda unfolded against the backdrop of its haunting history and resilient spirit. From the moment I touched down in Kigali, I knew that this trip would be unlike any other. 

After landing at the airport, I navigated through immigration, the probing questions about the purpose of my visit stirring a mix of emotions. Explaining my involvement in a study program of JDC focused on the Rwandan genocide against the Tutsi, the immigration officer asked if the actual reason for my visit, was the connection this genocide has with the Holocaust. The encounter left me questioning the impact of my presence on the delicate social fabric of Rwanda, where inquiries about ethnic backgrounds are considered taboo—a stark reminder of the country’s painful past. 

My mind drifted back to a journey I took over a decade ago, when I explored Poland as an 18-year-old on an educational program. Unaware then of the weight of historical injustices, that trip was the beginning of a lifelong journey of enlightenment around how dehumanization becomes possible and how much resilience human beings find inside them in such radical circumstances. 

As the days passed in Rwanda, each moment revealed new layers of history and strength, like our visit to the Kigali Genocide Memorial, where names and photographs adorned the walls, each telling a heartbreaking tale of a life cut short. Beneath them, descriptions of favorite foods and cherished memories served as poignant reminders of the humanity stolen from these innocent victims. It was a day filled with profound emotions—death, horror, and deep sadness. Yet, amidst the darkness, there were moments of light and hope, fleeting glimpses of resilience and the enduring power of the human spirit. 

We visited the Nyamata Church Genocide Memorial, a solemn tribute to the horrors of the past. It was once a church, a sanctuary where Tutsi people sought refuge to escape the brutality unfolding outside. Now, it stands as a testament to their courage and the unimaginable atrocities committed against them. Bones, remains, clothes, and dust—every artifact telling a story of loss and suffering, echoing the tragedies of Treblinka and Maidanek. 

As we stood in reverence, we recited Kaddish, the traditional Jewish prayer for the dead, in honor of those whose lives were senselessly taken. The haunting melody echoed through the memorial, intertwining with the memories of countless souls lost to genocide. Suddenly, a group of local children approached us, their innocent faces a stark contrast to the somber surroundings. They started hugging us, their embraces a silent acknowledgment of our presence, a wordless expression of gratitude for bearing witness to the unspeakable horrors of the past. 

As I reflect on the day’s events, I am reminded of the complexities of justice in the face of such unimaginable loss. The juxtaposition of life and death, light and darkness, serves as a stark reminder of the fragile balance between hope and despair. In this profound tragedy, we find solace in the knowledge that by witnessing the past, we honor the memory of those who perished and reaffirm our commitment to a future free from hatred and intolerance. 

At the Agahazo-Shalom Youth Village (ASYV), —or Agahozo, as students and local staff call it, I found a paradise on earth—a place brimming with opportunities for teenagers aged 14 to 21 coming from vulnerable backgrounds. Here, they are offered opportunities for growth and development through education in a wide array of options: art, music, technology, fashion, technical careers, all within the framework of a family structure provided by the school’s unique family unit model. Additionally, the students receive three meals a day, ensuring their basic needs are met while they pursue their education and personal development. 

Conversations with ASYV’s executive director shed light on the village’s transformative mission. From rigorous recruitment to vocational training, ASYV fosters holistic development. The founder of the village, Anne Heyman’s, vision of educational transformation resonated profoundly. 

We had a great conversation with the executive director of ASYV. He used to work at a university in Kigali that received students from ASYV the youth village. Impressed by the exceptional abilities of the students, he decided to visit the village for himself and eventually decided to become involved professionally. He mentioned that there is an annual recruitment of 3,200 teenagers, out of which 128 are selected each year. He emphasized the importance of the family structure in supporting the development of adolescents, considering it a core value of the model’s success.  

He discussed various programs offered by the school, including school exit programs and professional programs focused on technical careers such as hairdressing. He also highlighted the need for infrastructure improvements (such as a roof for the school’s amphitheater), and the expansion of technical career offerings. Towards the end of our conversation, he quoted Anne Hayman, the creator founder of ASYV, saying, “We are not in the industry or business of education; we aim to be in the business of transformation.” 

On the second to last day of our visit, we sat in a circle with students from the student government. After a brief introduction of our group and their individual backgrounds, one of the students asked a participant why they had chosen to work in Holocaust education and what exactly her role entailed. 

Prior to this, we had discussions about the sensitivity required when discussing the 1994 Rwandan genocide against the Tutsi, especially in front of local staff and students, to avoid triggering trauma. However, this question came from an advanced student, fluent in English and a member of the student government, so the context allowed us to dig into it. 

The participant explained that she educates students who lack access to Holocaust education, emphasizing its importance to prevent history from repeating itself. When asked why she believed this work was important, she spoke about the need for education to identify and challenge misinformation and discrimination. She stressed the significance of teaching the history of genocide to children who have yet to learn about it. 

It was a profoundly moving moment as the participant expressed her passion for the topic and her purpose as an educator, sharing it with Rwandan teenagers who were knowledgeable about the story of their own people. It underscored the importance of transmitting the purpose of Holocaust education to a people emerging from such a dark period. It begged the question: who teaches whom? 

Among the student government, there were Ministers of Culture, Sport, and Gender Equality. One student discussed the challenges of promoting feminism, highlighting the difficulty many face in understanding its principles. It was astonishing to witness a 16-year-old discussing the complexities of feminist education, a testament to their resilience and growth since the atrocities of only 30 years ago. Another student expressed aspirations of becoming a diplomat, having represented Uruguay in the Model United Nations on issues of refugees from Central America, which personally, as a Uruguayan, was touching. 

Reflecting on my journey through Rwanda, I am reminded of the enduring quest for understanding and transformation. Amidst unspeakable tragedy, I witnessed resilience, courage, and an unwavering commitment to building a brighter future. The lessons learned and connections forged during my journey will continue to guide me in my pursuit of justice, compassion, and meaningful change. 

As I bid farewell to Rwanda, I carry with me the stories of courage, hope, and transformation that have forever altered my perspective on the world and my Jewish people.